48 Hours in Cesky Krumlov

Ah, Český Krumlov, the Czech Republic’s beautiful UNESCO fairy-tale town, oozes Bohemian charm at every cobbled street you turn. The city, located in the Southern Bohemian region of the Czech Republic is a treasure dating back to the 1300’s, with building facades from the Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque periods, all meticulously preserved.

My first post on Cesky Krumlov was a photo journal through the charming town, but I felt that just wasn’t enough. I really think Český warrants a visit during your time in the Czech Republic (or should I start referring to it as Czechia?). It’s a picturesque town with a lot of Southern Bohemian charm, and if plan your visit right, you’ll have the town mostly to yourself.

If coming from Austria, it’s a 3 hour drive from Salzburg (read my Part I and Part II guide on things to do in Salzburg) by private shuttle that costs 800 CZK or $33.50. I recommend Bean Shuttle for their newer cars, and professionalism. They pick you up at your hotel for an additional 150CZK or $6 per person, which I recommend, or you can meet them at the Salzburg Train Station.

If coming from Prague, it’s approximately a 3 hour journey by bus. I recommend the Student Agency buses. A one way ticket with them costs 205 CZK/$8.60 but don’t be deterred by the cheap price, it doesn’t equate to poor quality. Just the opposite – it has to be the nicest bus I’ve used in my travels. They come with free coffee/tea/water, as well as tv screens for every seat, AND free wifi!

Or alternatively, book a day trip from Prague:

One of the oldest and best-preserved estates in Cesky Krumlov, Hotel Růže is Český’s only 5-star hotel. It was once used as a Jesuit dormitory in the 16th century, and the archways, ceilings, and frescos have all been well-preserved. Rates start at $124 a night, but book in advance because the 70-room property sells out often!

On the other end of the spectrum is Krumlov House, where we stayed while in Český Krumlov. It’s not a typical hostel because they offer beds (no bunks) in six-bed dorm rooms, private doubles, triples and quads with private or shared facilities, and private, self-catering apartments.

We booked a private double room for $19.90 per person per night, which was an insane deal. On check-in, we were upgraded to the family room because the hostel was rather quiet at that time of year – the room was huge but unfortunately, due to the rain and cold, smelled like mold. To make matters worse, a member of the staff while cleaning the room prior to check-in had turned the water switch for the shower to hot, and so when it was time for Vic’s shower, all she got was scalding water! It was our first time staying in a hostel (EVER), and it’s something we wanted to experience. Unfortunately, I don’t think we lucked out in this instance, but that’s not to say your experience at Krumlov House will be bad. The reason we picked them as our choice of accommodation is because of their great reviews online.

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Head into town to explore the Český Krumlov castle and its grounds. On your way to the castle, stop by MLS for some freshly baked trdelník (and in the winter a cup of hot wine). Trdelník is a popular Czech pastry made from dough that’s rolled on a stick, grilled and coated with powdered sugar before being served.

There’s one on the left side of the street, right at the bottom of the steps that take you up to the castle.

Looking for a guided walking tour of Cesky Krumlov? I recommend booking this one:

The Český Krumlov castle is one of the largest castle complexes in Europe, with a stunningly colorful facade. A ticket to head up the tower, and explore the castle museum costs 150 CZK per person ($6.30) or if you get the Cesky Krumlov card for 300 CZK ($12.60) you get access to the tower, castle museum and every other museum in the city. I think that’s worth it!

Climbing to the top of the tower is a must, despite the 162-steep step climb. Once you get to the top all you can do is marvel at the view of the Vltava River meandering through the town below! The tower was originally built to guard the medieval river crossing, and climbing it makes you realize how short the medieval people were. I’m only 5’4 but I had to be careful not to hit my head on the ceiling at certain points.  

A charming addition to the castle is its Baroque theater; it’s one of only two that survives to this day (the other one is in Stockholm) because at the time, the theater was all about melodrama, making use of candles and pyrotechnics for special effects. You can imagine what happened when the effects malfunctioned – they’d burn to the ground, which is how several hundred of Europe’s Baroque theaters met their demise!

 

For a delicious lunch, head to Nonna Gina’s – they serve authentic pizza and pasta, and definitely have veg-friendly options. In a country where the local cuisine consists heavily of meat, meat, and more meat, finding suitable vegetarian-friendly restaurants (and no, a salad does not count!) can be a challenge. Cesky Krumlov, however, for how small a town it is, does quite alright in this regard.

Walking to the castle, and especially up the tower is enough to tire anyone. Or maybe, just me, but my solution is one you can partake in: getting a wonderful Czech honey massage at Hotel Ruze! For $40, it proves to be the ultimate de-stressor and is something I highly recommend. After an hour of having all the knots in my back worked on, I left the massage room feeling so refreshed, knowing I was going to sleep soundly that night.

Veggie-lovers rejoice, because Laibon is Cesky Krumlov’s only veg-restaurant, and a delicious one at that! They serve up vegetarian-inspired dishes from all around the world such as hummus and pita, tabbouleh, and a number of Indian curries and desserts. The co-owner, David, who was there the evening we ate, is such a lovely person. We talked to him (he’s a fellow traveler) all through dinner, and didn’t want to leave once we were through with dinner. Dining in the Czech Republic is extremely reasonable, and for $26 we got two appetizers, two entrees, and drinks! Talk about a satisfying deal.

Spending Friday night in Cesky Krumlov means one thing: heading to the town’s only gypsy bar, Cikánská Jizba, for an evening of lively music by their in-house gypsy band. I say, from personal experience, that this is something you must plan your visit around. If you’ve been to other parts of Europe, you know that Roma’s are never viewed in a positive light, and live in segregated areas. But, that’s not the case in Cesky Krumlov – the town proudly has a community of about 1,000 Romas.

The music commences around 9:15-9:30pm, but I highly recommend getting there at least an hour before because the bar is extremely tiny. You’ll want to get a seat as you sip on some local beer from Eggenberg brewery, and prepare yourself for the musical experience. If you’ve never heard Romani music before (it was my first time), you are in for a treat – the musician’s voices coupled with the sounds from their instruments made for some melodious tunes, leaving us transfixed.

Even though Rick Steves and other guidebooks mention this bar, when we walked in we were stared down, as if tourists never come in. So be warned, things might get awkward. We got to talking to this older man at our table, who was trying to practice his very-limited English vocabulary with us, and he asked us where we were from. The minute I mentioned my Indian heritage, everyone’s ears peaked up, and they immediately started talking amongst themselves, very clearly about me. I think at one point, both myself and Victoria thought that a member of the band was going to ask me out, he wouldn’t quit staring at me. Definitely an unnerving situation to be in, but now makes for a hilarious anecdote!

Once you’ve heard your fair share of music, head to Bar Van Gogh, Český Krumlov’s latest speakeasy/dive bar. Van Gogh is a lovely, intimate bar to meet fellow travelers, drink cheap Czech beer/wine, and spend your night. If you don’t mind the smell of smoke/weed, then there’s also a room in the back with a pool table. Keeping with the speakeasy theme, there isn’t a handle for you to enter, so you have to knock and announce yourself.

If you can, sit at the bar and talk to the bartender/owner, Daniel. He’s one of the most fascinating people I’ve ever come across and his travel stories are insane – everything from living with a medicine man in Africa, to working on in the production of the movie, King & I. There are very few people that live life the way he does, so get a chance to pick his brain if you can!

Roll out of bed, and head to Kolektiv for some breakfast (or depending on how late you stayed out the night before, might be brunch…it was for us) and a much needed dose of coffee.

If you visit in the Spring or Summer, in addition to the large crowds you’ll encounter (which is the reason I recommend visiting in the Fall/Winter), you’ll get the chance to canoe/kayak down the Vltava River, taking you through the Bohemian forests and past smaller villages – the final destination is a 13th century abbey from where the tour company awaits you and takes you back into town. Expect to spend three-four hours of your day on this, or if you don’t have the time, they offer hour long options within the city.

Český has four different museums that I believe are worth your time:

Take a walk up to Křižák Hill – it’s a 20 minute hike uphill, but the views make it worth it, especially at sunset. It’s also home to a rather ancient church, after which the hill is named. It was extremely hard not to stop staring at the fairy-tale city right below us – even looking at pictures now, I can’t get over at just how charming it is.

The hike uphill will definitely leave you famished, so head back into town for dinner at U dwau Maryí, a traditional outdoor Bohemian restaurant with plenty of vegetarian options! Highly recommend ordering some Czech honey wine, medovina – they serve handcrafted versions with three flavors: almond, herbal or cinnamon.

Your last night in Český Krumlov should be spent at either Apotheke – a lovely little cocktail bar, Music Bar – they play pop music, so expect plenty of dancing in their various theme rooms, or at Gorilla Bar– a location to kick back, drink a beer and play some pool.

I said it before, and I’ll say it again, there’s truly something magical about this town. Your trip to the Czech Republic won’t be complete without a visit to Český Krumlov. It’s the second most visited city in the Czech Republic, so I highly recommend sticking to fall or winter when the crowds die down. The town will be all yours.

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